Monday, July 7, 2025

 In June of 2025, Jeff and I travelled to the east coast to visit Phil and Lois in Tiverton, RI and sister-in-law Sonja Schuyler and and nephew Andrew in Jericho, VT. It was meant to be a farewell visit because all of us are in our 80s now and the distance between Jeff and me in Utah and relatives on the east (and west) coast is great. The following is an account I cobbled together after returning.

RHODE ISLAND JUNE 23-26

Jeff and I arranged for Stacey Blackwood, a friend of Jessica’s and a vet’s assistant, to catsit Baxter and Bear, our two indoor cats. We left notes and instructions, a tidy house, and clean sheets and towels.

On June 23rd we drove to Jessica’s house in Mill Creek at 7am. When we got there, Jessica’s friend, Sarah, hopped into the driver’s seat and drove us to the Salt Lake City Airport. This because we are timid big-city drivers and Jess was out-of-state visiting friends. Our flight left at 9:25am. We had a 3-hour layover in Denver, which saw us arriving in T.F. Green Providence Airport at 7:45pm.

Phil and Lois picked us up at the airport and Lois drove us home. We reached the Schuyler home just at dusk. Lois was jubilant (and so were we, ha, ha) that it was near dark and that she could see clearly. She’d had cataract surgery and doubted her vision at dusk and dark.

NOTE: I took very few photos at Phil and Lois's or at Sonja's. I have no idea why, but it never occurred to me. Perhaps we were too busy seeing everyone and everything and having fun.

When we got to P & L's we were greeted by Cruz, their enormous (14 pound) rescue cat. Cruz is a very special cat. He is extremely social and wags his tail like a dog. We got lots of loving on and from him.



Unfortunately, Rhode Island was suffering from a heat dome. Temps reached 100F during our visit, which is one thing in low-humidity locations such as Utah, but another in high-humidity, coastal Rhode Island. Phil and Lois do not have central air-conditioning, so we sought refuge under their deck umbrella or in their basement. Mornings and evenings were okay but during the day the heat was intense. It was so hot that the candles on the mantle wilted. The bedroom that Jeff and I slept in had a window air conditioner, so nights were fine. 


Cimarron joined us on the 25th. That evening we had an absolutely delicious salmon dinner. Oh to live near the ocean . . . and have super cook Lois enslaved!

Cim works at Harvard, which, as most know, is experiencing President Trump’s heavy-handed scythe. The university is now under financial pressure as the Trump administration is limiting federal research funding, tightening student visa rules, and proposing tax hikes targeting higher education. Cimarron’s office is feeling the squeeze. Cim had to leave for work at 4:30 am the day after she came. We did not know this, so did not get a chance to say good-bye. So . . . we are saying good-bye now, Cimarron, and rooting for both you and Harvard.

The heat curtailed what we did. Also, Phil was suffering from a swollen, sore leg (cause unknown at the time but later discovered to be a torn Achilles tendon). We all ate a delicious seafood lunch at the Sakonnet River Grille, but Phil stayed home when Jeff, Lois, and I drove to Newport to visit  the Green Animals Topiary Gardens. Too much walking for a sore leg. Though at the gardens we each carried an umbrella for shade, the heat curtailed our visit to this amazing gardens. 










A tree that seemed large to me; do not remember what the plaque said

We kept to the shade as much as possible and ended our visit sitting on the shaded side porch of the entrance building where we felt cooling breezes and enjoyed views of Narragansett Bay

Lois cooling on entrance building porch

Gorilla coming to visit us whilst we sit in the porch shade

It really doesn't show in this photo, but this tree was ENORMOUS! I read on the topiary site that it is over 300 years old.




























On the 25th,  Lois's friend Kathy, brought her two big bags of little-neck clams--maybe four dozen clams or more. We had planned on taking a fresh fish up to Sonja (I had even packed the cold bags) but the incident below precluded stopping at the fish market, so Lois insisted that we take most of the of clams instead. These we carefully packed in the cold bags. Lois reports that she chopped up the remaining clams and made a delicious clam linguini.

That evening we took sanctuary in P & L's cool basement and watched The Interpreter on the big-screen TV.

On June 26th, our final day in RI, Phil and Lois were set to drive us to Providence, where we were to catch an 11:45 train to Boston, where we would catch a bus to Vermont  (Gads!) Our bags packed, our tickets in hand, we were ready to rumble when Phil had a reaction to his meds. Lois needed to take Phil to the hospital, so called her neighbors, Kevin and Deb, who stepped up to drive us to the train while Lois took Phil to the hospital. 

At the hospital, Phil's blood pressure was monitored. Blood pressure remained fine. Toward the end of their stay, Phil was sick to his stomach so the docs kept him a while longer. All's well that ends well. Phil returned home never the worse for wear. Other than this incident, bro Phil, who has Alzheimer’s, seems fine. He recognized both of us, still has a sense of humor, and is still the brainy guy I grew up with, though I did notice more confusion on his part than three years ago when Sarah and I visited. Phil celebrated his 86th birthday March 12th. 

TRAVEL DAY, JUNE 26

Phil and Lois’s lovely neighbors, Kevin and Deb, drove us to the Providence train station, about half an hour away. There we caught a train to Boston where we then caught a Greyhound bus to Burlington, Vermont. The 11:17am train to Boston was comfortable and quick; however, the bus from Boston to Vermont was a long slog (5 hours). The charging port in front of our third-row-right seats was broken, so the guy across the aisle volunteered to charge our phones in his charging port.

One of the best things about this long bus ride is that the bus--no longer called The Megabus, which I rode to VT years ago--made a long rest stop at a convenience store. The main thing I remembered about my previous Megabus ride was the bus's tiny bathroom, so I was relieved (ha, ha) in more ways than one. 

VERMONT, JUNE 26—29

Sister-in-law Sonja Schuyler met us at the Burlington Central Bus Station and the three of us enjoyed a late lunch at a tavern on Burlington's Church Street, Vermont's award-winning pedestrian mall, before driving to Jericho and Peter and Sonja’s lovely home. Bro Peter died in 2021, but his tools, large truck, the stacks of firewood, vegetable garden, and tractor, etc. still echo his name.

Churro

We were introduced to Churro, a very friendly cat . . . . when he was given the kibbles he begged for . . . a hisser when he did not get his way.

We presented Sonja with the clams that had traveled well in their cold bag. She refrigerated them and they came in handy the next day when Robinson stopped in. Robinson, Haitian (John) Paputo's brother. Paputo stayed with Sonja for three months when he first came to the states. During the time that Paputo stayed with Sonja, he helped in the yard a lot and also helped Sonja when she came down with covid. Eventually the brothers moved to an apartment together.

Long story longer: That evening Sonja used the clams in a "tomato zuppa" recipe and the four of us had delicious bowls of clams in a tomato broth. Robinson loved the dish. Haitians eat a lot of seafood I would guess.

Sonja drove us to the King Arthur Baking Company. Here she and Jeff--both excellent cooks and bakers--found many items to their liking. I also bought some things that will be stocking stuffers.

We ate lunch at the lovely King Arthur café. At this distance I can no longer remember what we ate. The trip to this company, that both Jeff and Sonja order from, was a treat. Sonja asked if we also wanted to visit Cabot Farms--they who produce my favorite cheese, but we decided not. It meant another long drive and the travelling and visiting were wearing us out.

On the way to the King Arthur Baking Company we crossed the Ompompanousic River. I asked Sonja how the name of the river was pronounced and she rattled it off nonchalantly. Means over murky muddy land.

The next day we visited the Jericho town library. Quite wonderful to find that the library was the community hub. Also to see the interest visiting children had in books rather than their electronics and to see the way the young librarian encouraged reading and play.

Jeff and Sonja before the Jericho Town Library

We also visited the Snowflake Bentley museum and gift shop in The Old red Mill.


What a wonder. And to think that this man found a way to photograph snowflakes with the camera equipment available in the late 1800s. He became the first person to photograph a single snow crystal. He would go on to photograph well over 5000 snow crystals, never finding two the same. Peter and Sonja sent me a book about Snowflake Bentley several years ago. Fascinating.

Jeff, Wilson Alwyn "Snowflake" Bentley, and Sonja at Snowflake Bentley Museum


Some of Bentley's snowflake photographs

Very large and intricate quilt made by Bentley's grandmother, I believe

The Snowflake Bentley gift shop is run by a ninth generation Bentley relative. She and I talked awhile about her family and her pride at being related to Snowflake Bentley and growing up in Jericho, Vermont.

One day we poked around in a Habitat for Humanity Restore. I wanted to see about doorknobs for our new tiny house, Gigi. While there were many interesting next-to-new things for sale, the store had few structural antiques. However, Sonja found and bought three stainless knives that match her stainless set. 

The day before we started our trip home, Sonja threw a large barbeque for us, her son Andrew and his family (wife Sarah and daughter Sophie); and for Peter and Sonja’s former Russian exchange student, Yana, and her family (husband Mike and daughter Maya). Yana married Mike, settled in Vermont, and has become family. I got so wrapped up in the cooking, serving, talking, and cleaning up etc. that I neglected to take a single photo of this gathering. Yana is an excellent photographer. She took many photos, so I am sharing below a few that she sent me. Thank you Yana!

Sonja, nephew Andrew, Jeff, and moi, daahlinks

Sophie and Maya enjoying a book of Schuyler family photos that Yana created

Sonja, Maya, and Sophie toasting marshmallows for s'mores.

Sonja, Andrew, Jeff and me figuring the best route to take for the drive to the Rhode Island Airport . . . without entering Boston.

Vermont is beautiful—thick green wooded mountains, none of them clear cut as in California; two-lane roads galore, roadside veggie stands, flowers; mixed hardwoods, birch, and sumac trees remembered from childhood; beautiful large, old houses, and a slower, quieter more serene pace than many other U.S. states

Home again, Home again, Jiggity UGH.

On Sunday, June 30th, Sonja drove us to the Burlington, VT, airport to be there at 9am. There, we said a fond good-bye to this remarkable woman, and then picked up our Budget rental car. We planned to drive leisurely to the Providence, RI, airport so that we could stop at Bread Loaf School of English where Jeff and I had earned our English Masters degrees and met and married 56 years ago. We would spend the night in the Providence airport’s Fairfield by Marriott Inn & Suites and fly back to Salt Lake City the next day (Monday June 30th).

I was beginning to get a sore throat and hacking, choking cough, but drove the first leg which saw us in Middlebury, VT, just before lunch time. Church was not out, so it was difficult to find a parking spot along Main Street because of congregants’ parked cars. Finally we found a parking spot and also found the Otter Creek Bakery and Deli where we ate lunch on the side porch. Then I drove us up through Ripton to Bread Loaf School of English (named after the bread loaf-shaped mountain near it).

VISITING BREAD LOAF SCHOOL OF ENGLISH

Three years ago, sister Sarah and I made the trip east to visit Phil, Lois, and Sonja. At this visit, Sonja drove us to Bread Loaf. The school was not in operation then, so I showed Sarah and Sonja the Bread Loaf Inn where Jeff and I had married in the Blue Parlor, Birch where Jeff and I had roomed the summer after we married, the Barn with its classrooms, and the Little Theater, etc. That time, when we stopped at Birch, lo and behold, the lawn was dotted with shaggy mane mushrooms. We picked a good bag full and cooked and ate them when we got back to Sonja’s.

This time, when Jeff and I visited, the school was in session, though it was quite quiet as it was Sunday and classes were not in session. We took photos of each other sitting on the familiar green rockers on the Inn's wrap-around porch. Read the sign above us here.

We entered the Inn and stopped by the front desk where we talked to Ed Brown.
(I think that was his name.) We told him that we’d met and married at Bread Loaf 56 years ago and wanted to visit old haunts. He was interested in our Bread Loaf history and asked us to stop by the front desk on the way out. When we did, he took our phone numbers and explained that he was writing a history of the school and wanted to interview us when he got to the 1960’s. What fun!

Left side of the Bread Loaf Inn with its famous sign.

We wandered through the first floor of the Inn (the second floor is a dormitory)  with its reception area, blue parlor, kitchen/dining hall, and wrap-around porch; explored the classrooms in the barn, most equipped with more modern desks than our time; looked around the main section of the huge barn, which was set up for a reception that afternoon; and posed before Birch where we’d shared a corner room on the second floor the summer after we married.


The Bread loaf Preservation Fund established by a former student 10 years after us

The Inn lobby with its recently exposed original floor boards

Lobby fireplace and student mailboxes

The fireplace in the Blue Parlor before which Jeff and I said our vows
before Reverend Scott, the Middlebury College chaplain 

Jeff and me before Birch, married student housing.
We were in the top floor corner room left which is not visible in this these photos

Some very old faded pics of us the day we married.

TF GREEN AIRPORT, WARWICK, RI

Then it was onward to the TF Green Providence Airport in Warwick, RI. I drove Route 7, a beautiful two-lane winding road through Vermont, and then Jeff picked up driving in Lebanon, and drove the remaining 170 miles to the airport on divided four-lane highways . . . avoiding driving into Boston.

At the airport, we dropped the car at the Budget Rental Car Return and then had the devil of a time finding the airport’s exit and shuttle service. It seemed as though the entire airport was being renovated. Temporary walls, blocked areas etc. After walking a very long bridge connecting the car return to the airport, we rode escalators and elevators up and down, finally finding the shuttle service . . .  but no Fairfield shuttle. I tried calling the number on the reservation and got AI. When we saw a van loading, I asked if it was the Fairfield shuttle. Nope. We were walking away wondering how to get to the hotel, when the van driver beckoned us over and said he would drop us on his way to his hotel. We squeezed in and were driven only about a block and a half before the shuttle pulled up before the Fairfield. We could have hoofed it!

Great room with king bed and wonderful shower. However, at this point, my sore throat was screeching and my phlegmy cough was breath-taking and persistent, causing very sore ribs and muscles.

It was wonderful to see Phil, Lois and Cimarron in Rhode Island; to see Sonja, nephew Andrew, Andrew's talented wife, Sarah, and daughter Sophie. We also loved seeing former Russian exchange student Yana Tamlyn and family in Vermont. However the trip was fraught with problems: The high heat in RI, Phil's hospital visit, Jeff's falling down the stairs and injuring his ankle in Vermont, and my getting an exhausting deep, persistent cough, which I still have as I type this.

P.S. It is now July 9th, nearly 10 days after our return. I still have the cough and sore ribs, but I managed to see our doctor who diagnosed acute bronchitis--said it can last weeks! Please no! The doc prescribed a medicated inhaler to help with my wheezy coughing, and an over-the-counter cough medicine. So far a little relief to the "can't breathe" coughing, and I do feel better just knowing what ails me.

P.P.S. Sonja diagnosed bronchitis over the phone. Maybe she should start a second career.

On the flight back to SLC, I sat by the window so that I could rest my head against it and Jeff sat on the aisle. The poor guy who sat between us is probably still cursing his luck. The plane was full so there was no other option open for him. I wore a mask and turned away as I coughed but I was going through a box of tissues.

When we got to the SLC airport after an hour layover in Baltimore and a 45 minute delay, it was after 5PM. Jessica picked us up at the airport. At my request Jess and Jeff dropped me at an UrgentCare facility near our house and continued on to our Sandy house. I sat in Instacare (a misnomer!) for 4+ hours coughing and gagging before being seen. The doc x-rayed my lungs which were clear, determined that I did not have covid or RSV, (I'd had recent inoculations) and prescribed an antibiotic and cough medicine. While I feel better now (July 19th), I still have the strangling cough. One ray of sunshine: Jeff arrived home exhausted but has not caught whatever it is that I have.

Goodbye and thank you all!

 In June of 2025, Jeff and I travelled to the east coast to visit Phil and Lois in Tiverton, RI and sister-in-law Sonja Schuyler and and nep...